Wednesday, June 9, 2010

laser beams

The laser cutter is a wonderful product of modern technology, combining computer programing with precision cutting, it offers a world of possibilities. It also provides a savvy way to emulate the appearance of traditional leather crafts in an efficient way. For example, fringing, weaving with strips and slats, perforations, etc. I wonder whether the use of a laser cutter in artisan shoe making could be a way to modernise an age-old craft- a reverse of the brief: how can craft inform contemporary design? to how can design and modernity inform craft?

I like the idea of designing and making alongside the laser cutter. Design ideas are drafted in paper patterns, toiled, then converted into illustrator vector files which are used for the laser cutter to cut and decorate the leather. The concept is reminiscent of Issey Miyake's APOC the way the design is contained entirely in one image, and from that image all components of the shoe can be created, from 2-dimensional to 3-dimensional.

In my first trial on the laser cutter I tested a range of techniques I was interested in using in my shoes. These included crescent shapes, 'cheat's weaving', fringing and perforations. Most were successful and the results were good. What disappointed me was the markings left on the leather from the laser beam and the way the burning left the leather quite brittle in parts.

Some things to consider with laser cutting are:

  • When does a hand craft stop being a hand craft? is it simply as soon as machines are involved or is is only when there is little to no relationship between the human maker and the product.
  • Does laser cutting destroy this handmade quality, both in the final outcomes and the joy and satisfaction experienced by the craftsperson?
  • By laser cutting, is due respect paid to the materials (leather), and if the integral tactile experience of working with the materials is lessened does this lessen the value of the craft?
  • Can laser cutting increase the potential to have a sustainable and viable shoe-making business by economising on time and possibly money (through less mistakes, fabric wastage, etc)?

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