Shoe Lasts Australia

After much deliberation I finally made the trip out to Thomastown to visit Bruce Miller of Shoe Lasts Australia. I found out about the company though Leflers and called Bruce way back in April. He said that one-off lasts were available either new or second hand in a range of different sizes, toe shapes and heel heights, all I needed to do was bring my upper pattern and get to Thomastown. So on thursday, a train, a bus, a walk and quite a time later I arrived to see Bruce. After panicking that I'd mistaken my directions I found the factory and upon entering could hardly contain my excitement- there were shoe lasts everywhere! Including heels for Emma The Shoemaker (a young shoemaker I discovered via Craft Victoria's Shoe Show in 2009).

Bruce was so friendly and helpful, and he had a great deal to tell me about shoe lasts, and shoemaking in Australia and in modern times.

Firstly, Shoe Lasts Australia is the only last manufacturer in Australia, so I felt very lucky to live in Melbourne. Bruce is the only last designer that he knows of. This is particularly sad because there is no one to succeed him, there is little interest in Australia and the only way to prevent the business from collapsing is to bring in someone from overseas. His factory is well equipped to produce commercial numbers, up to 200 lasts a day with twin last-turning machinery and a CAD last pattern making system being set up, but there isn't the demand. Most of Bruce's orders are for smaller quantities such as Emma the Shoe Maker's, but because numbers are limited Bruce is unable to charge the valued amount. Recently orders have been up because as Bruce asserted, the Asian manufacturing companies have been unable to keep up and brands such as RM Williams have been turning to him for help. The trend for clogs has also generated work for the factory with many designs for different shoemakers being made up in wood. This has meant business has been stable since last year.

I also learnt a lot about the lasts themselves. I knew most modern lasts were plastic, not wood. But Bruce explained that he still made wood lasts as the master pattern for the plastic ones to be copied and graded from. Bruce and two others make the lasts entirely themselves at the factory, starting with extruding the plastic for turning. There were so many different shapes and sizes that I really did realise the importance of a good last. I was after a very specific toe shape, similar to a peak toe as I discovered and it took a long time to find. While I'm very happy with my last, even after all that searching though boxes for the best one, there are minor details of my last that I would change.

Now I just need to work out how to use them- I think a practice shoe is in store. I'm a bit stressed because although I know that one of my uppers fits well, I'm not so sure about the other and I don't have enough leather to cut another set, nor enough time for that matter...

The first of the finals

One of my favorite shoe designs: a leather brogue combining fringing and weaving. A full trial of the the laser cut shoe with all pieces cut out with the laser cutter.

The calico toile (excuse the lack of pressing...)

More fringing was added to the final patterns

The transfer of the paper patterns to illustrator was a boring and painful process but the excitement of seeing my pieces cut out on the laser cutter made up for it. There were a few problems along the way such as the laser not fully cutting through sections of the leather meaning I had to go over it by hand with scissors where possible or recut pieces again separately, defeating the purpose of my laser cut pattern. Some of the pieces are a little charred but overall the result is neat and precise.

The pattern pieces:

The weaving was perhaps the most successful part of the laser cut process, also probably the most time consuming. The fringing I had a bit of difficulty getting to look neat when joined to the rest of the shoe. I just need to bind the edges of the quarter and attach the sole.

laser beams

The laser cutter is a wonderful product of modern technology, combining computer programing with precision cutting, it offers a world of possibilities. It also provides a savvy way to emulate the appearance of traditional leather crafts in an efficient way. For example, fringing, weaving with strips and slats, perforations, etc. I wonder whether the use of a laser cutter in artisan shoe making could be a way to modernise an age-old craft- a reverse of the brief: how can craft inform contemporary design? to how can design and modernity inform craft?

I like the idea of designing and making alongside the laser cutter. Design ideas are drafted in paper patterns, toiled, then converted into illustrator vector files which are used for the laser cutter to cut and decorate the leather. The concept is reminiscent of Issey Miyake's APOC the way the design is contained entirely in one image, and from that image all components of the shoe can be created, from 2-dimensional to 3-dimensional.

In my first trial on the laser cutter I tested a range of techniques I was interested in using in my shoes. These included crescent shapes, 'cheat's weaving', fringing and perforations. Most were successful and the results were good. What disappointed me was the markings left on the leather from the laser beam and the way the burning left the leather quite brittle in parts.

Some things to consider with laser cutting are:

• When does a hand craft stop being a hand craft? is it simply as soon as machines are involved or is is only when there is little to no relationship between the human maker and the product.

• Does laser cutting destroy this handmade quality, both in the final outcomes and the joy and satisfaction experienced by the craftsperson?

• By laser cutting, is due respect paid to the materials (leather), and if the integral tactile experience of working with the materials is lessened does this lessen the value of the craft?

• Can laser cutting increase the potential to have a sustainable and viable shoe-making business by economising on time and possibly money (through less mistakes, fabric wastage, etc)?